Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
